MOULDING INSTALLATION TIPS

You only need a few basic tools to complete any moulding project.  Be sure to invest in a quality mitre box with a fine-tooth saw.  

  • Mitre box

  • Fine-tooth saw

  • Tape measure

  • Sand paper

  • Hammer

  • Nail set (to punch nail heads below the moulding surface)

  • Wood stick that matches the color of your moulding

 

HOW TO PURCHASE THE RIGHT AMOUNT OF MOULDING . . .

You must first determine where the moulding is to be used and then estimate the quantity of each type you'll need.  Mouldings are available in 3' to 16' lengths.  Whenever possible, try and use shorter pieces closer to the actual length required, rather than buying a longer piece and cutting it into several shorter lengths.

Make a list of the specific lengths you'll need and then round your measurements up to the nearest foot to allow for cutting and trimming.

Allow for 10% extra for cutting and waste.

E.g. Measurement 7'-3" from the above diagram would be rounded up to 8'.  Then go on with each wall measurement.

 

CUTTING MITRE JOINTS . . .

Most moulding mitre joints are at 45° angles.


Trim each of the two mitering members at opposite angles; when fitted together they should form a tight right angle.

 

 

For tight mitre joints, nail and glue at joints as shown.

 

 

When measuring for miters, use the outside dimensions rather than the inside dimensions, to ensure you have the correct length.

*When renovating your home, please note that almost no wall or ceiling is perfectly square.  To ensure accuracy when placing new baseboards, crowns, chair rails or any moulding, measure carefully along the level that they are to be placed.

Coping is an alternative to mitred corners in which the moulding profile, or shape is duplicated to fit tightly against the face of the adjoining moulding.

Trim the moulding in the mitre box at a 45° angle.  The exposed profile serves as a guideline for the coping saw.  Follow the profile with the coping saw as a right angle  with the face of the moulding.

 

The cut from figure 3 results in a duplication for the moulding pattern which then fits tightly against the face of the adjoining moulding.

 

HOW DO I SPLICE A MOULDING . . .

To span longer lengths, you may have to splice mouldings.

Mitre the joining ends at 45° angles from front to back.  One member will overlap the other in a scraf joint, creating a vertical face seam in the finished installation.

 

It is advisable to join moulding pieces over a wall stud for additional strength and to prevent joint movement.

 

HOW DO I INSTALL A MOULDING . . .

 Install the moulding piece by piece, working your way around the room, leaving the nail heads exposed to allow for repositioning.  Avoid nailing the last 2 or 3 inches of each piece to avoid splitting.  In some cases, you may need to pre-drill your mouldings before installation.  Nail in the curved or cove part of the moulding to better hide the nail holes.  Nail moulding into wood studs or jambs.  When nailing by hand, any good quality finishing nail properly countersunk will work well.

When the mouldings are positioned correctly, sink the nails with a nail set, then fill the resulting holes with wood putty.  Always use a non-shrinking filler, a lightweight Spackle or Shur-Patch is best.  Once nail holes have been filled, lightly sand these areas as necessary.